From home through NSW

Day 6 (10 May) already, in the Warrumbungle NP just west of Coonabarabran in north central NSW. I don't know what the temperature is outside but it is very cool indeed. Yes - outside. We're holed up in the Vista working over the saloon table feeling very snug. It is a very familiar environment and only lacks the lapping of water on the hull and the sound of halyards tapping masts - we could be in Queenscliffe waiting for the tide! Sadly the computer and the camera have stopped talking to each other and that means there won't be any photographs until we have visited the digital guru.

Our journey started last Tuesday after we had reversed the van half a kilometre back up Waterworks Rd because we had forgotten the car seat cushions. These things happen and we now expect to remember things before we get on to the main road. Perhaps you know how it is.We have forgotten the sat phone however and that is a nuisance; this year we are travelling back to Woodend after about six weeks or so because of Andy's wedding so we'll pick it up before we find ourselves in the middle of a desert with noone passing by. We had so much work to knock off in the garden that things didn't really get the attention they deserved, and now we are travelling a lot lighter, with the minimum of clothing and nothing like as much food. There seems to be a lot of grog on board. A balance is required after all.

So we finally left about 09:30hrs heading this time out by way of Heathcote and up to Shepparton where we fuelled up. Running along well west of the Hume we had a standing lunch at Tocumwal just into NSW - a pretty town on the banks of the Murray. Then Finley, Berrigan and cross country through Urana and Lockhart, where the whole countryside, roads and all, was covered in a weedy grass that bowls along in front of the wind, collecting on every fence and gathering in great drifts over a metre deep in the road cuttings. We are told it is called variously "Arseweed" - it being a pain for the farmer's presumably, "Hairy Panic" - farmers again. Truly it will be a great problem for the farmers because it covered an area taking the best part of a day to drive. Then we were over the 'Bidgee to Coolamon and into the attractive caravan park at Junee, in time to watch the youth of Junee at their sport under floodlights opposite. Soccer that is. Disgraceful in a NSW country town! The weather forecast had been doubtful for several days and, as last year, our first night out was noisily accompanied by thunderous booms, lightning and rain rattling on the roof - all noise and very little real rain though. And since it has been cloudless with daytime temperatures comfortable enough. Next stop was Helen's cousin George's place, a lovely farm, 1000 metres altitude, buried in the Southern Tablelands outside Oberon, about 40kms SE of Bathurst. We were really surprised how quiet the Olympic Hwy was, free of cars and trucks. The run through cherry country to Cootamundra and Young, Cowra and Blayney was a no fuss leisurely drive and we clocked in with George at about 14:00hrs.

George is a poet and after the cattle had been checked on in the 6 wheel Gator, dogs jumping in and out, and the sun setting ready for a cold night, we returned down the grassy hill to the kitchen for firelighting, tea and several finely crafted verses. Next to a good metre G's stirling efforts as winemaker were also sampled. 400 litres of Pinot Noir were taken off their lees and returned to their barrels next day; horses were ridden and a sleepy chapter was read in the cosy sun room with the big view. Bliss really, so thank you George.

On Friday we took ourselves off to the Kanungra Walls and the Jenolan Caves to catch up with our travelling friend Max Jones's great x 5 grandfather, James Whalan, who discovered the caves in about 1830. We walked around the Walls for hours and listened to a lyrebird. Amazing fact - did you know that lyrebirds turn over an average of 63 tonnes of debris per hectare per year? We took a guided walk through the Lucas cave - part of the Jenolan complex which is the oldest open system in the world (340 million years).

Realising there was no more work to be had out of us we waved good bye to George on Saturday morning, fuelled up in Bathurst and began the journey north again. Our way took us through interesting old gold mining towns such as Sofala and Gulgong, also the home of Henry Lawson. Make sure you visit the old "pioneer" museum if you go through Gulgong. You cannot move through this country if you are a Clark or married to one (Helen's mother's mob), without the drums beating. George called up his brother John Clark, where we will be next Tuesday, farming north of Warialda. Another branch of the family at Cunnamulla apparently, so who knows when we'll get to croc country! Helen has already spotted aboriginal rock "art" in two places - at Hands on Rock just north of Ulan, and today at the Sandstone Caves in the Pilliga Reserve, north of Coonabarabran. So here we are folks - getting into our walking stride and averaging about 5kms walking per day so far, with a 13km walk along the Pincham Trail that takes in The Breadknife, and Grand High Tops tomorrow. Knees complaining a bit but surely that will improve. 

I (Ian) have just finished reading James Hansen's book "Storms of my grandchildren", which is not relaxing holiday reading. However it is essential reading and terrifying reading and everyone should get it out of the library. It is just published, written by the climate scientist who advised Gore and Clinton and tried to talk sense to the Bush/Cheney gang. Can I persuade anyone to google him, and 350.org? Think Carbon Tax now, not ETS, and an end to coal in 10 years or we're stuffed.

On that light note, as it is still tea time, bon appetit!